The Schwarz Kennels

and the Dire Wolf Project

Adult Dogs For Sale

Email from an adult dog buyer:

Lois ~ I take Shenanigan to school with me every day. There are two people in my class this year that are fairly allergic to dogs, but they can both pet her without any problems. In most dogs that are allergy friendly, it is because the dog does not shed, but this is not the case with Shenanigan as she sheds lightly throughout the year. It might have something to do with the fact that she almost exclusively sheds her undercoat? I though that you might like to know this. Isabell


 
 





 
 

  Quentin 

(Saigon  x  Mr Q)

2,400.00   
Click on any dogs photo

   Standoffish as he should be, to strangers. Warms up to people slowly. Trained NOT to advance on anyone, until they sit down in a chair or on the ground then he is in your lap. A lover of a pup.

Will be excellent with children if you introduce him properly.

   Leash trained Do NOT PULL my dogs, EVER. If you do not know how to walk a dog on a loose leash, you MAY NOT have him. He doesnt like to be man-handled. This is a soft hearted dog.

   He is a sensitive dog and NEEDS socialization training. SLOWLY.. He is a very SLOW dog and can NOT handle a lot of energy, UNTIL you train him. He can mold into any lifestyle, but you need to be smart enough to figure it out. Thus no NEWBIES...he is too big
 
180 lbs at maturity i am guessing.
Health: in great health. Should live a long healthy life.

Ground transportation only. May cost you 1,000.00 to transport 
 


       Sela

1800.00
After first breeding

(interested: Carolyn Joseph 600.00 deposit down 1-20-19)

 1-2-19  Roo's too much. Talks

 4-20-19 Came into season. is a very nice adult dog. Does bark a very little, but nothing much. Great personality. Loving and kind to everyone.
She is not socialized as we live on a farm. She heals good and comes when called for me. Standoffish enough for strangers. NEVER been to town. 

 



Poohka
(Minerva x Boss)
After first litter


Med/Long coated female out of the Irish Wolfhound lines. 

weighs about 130

Girthy and pick of the litter.

This is a way too happy dog, not standoffish at all. 

Loves everyone, cats, dogs, birds.

Highly intellegent and very 'willing' and able to do so much for you. She will love to 'dress-up" or to pull a wagon. She loves her picture taken and is a clown.
She is great on a leash and never pulls me. Very inquisitive. Would love trips to town, but has not ever been there.

Needs to be trained and socialized, but dont all dogs?

She would like to play fetch her way as she wants you to chase her for a bit. She is velcro to her owner for the most part as she cant stand being away from you for long. Click on her photo for more info. For sale AFTER her first litter of pups.

$1,200.00
 


Topper
3,000.00

 

    Very Wolfy, standoffish enough, easy going, bold dog.  Would probably keep the coyotes and preditory animals away from your home. If trained to guard and protect he might do this well as he matures. At this age he is still a pup. He is NOT a working dog.

   I would keep this boy, but i must move on to the next generation (or not). It doesnt matter to me. But i shall be keeping more of his pups. So i will have his sons as well as daughters. 
     He is not the perfect Dire Wolf dog in looks but in his genes he has everything i need to build on for great puppies. His feet are too small and he is too thin for my taste. He probably weighs 110 lbs
     A great dog with a great serious, devotion to family and owner. (best individual companion dog ever). If you are a woman alone, this dog is all you need!  
He probably will weigh about 118 at maturity. He is a solid dog. 
   Needs socialization, a slow easy process making everything enjoyable. He does  NOT REQUIRE energetic fast people. As a matter of fact i personally (because i am so attached to him) dont want him to have any newbies take him.
       He is a serious looking dog, but  a love on the inside. This is not a frizby dog. He is a lay around, walk around. look here, look there type of a guy. Yeah he can get excited to see me and jumps a few times and wiggles his rump at me, but he is also trained to wait until i sit down before getting his hugs.  I did have to train him to come into me with his head first as he likes his rump scratched. Now he loves his head in my lap.  I love this dog.


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What is the range of prices for an adult?

Dont quote me on this:
If i am tired, and have over 10 bitches and she is not spayed and it looks like a gsd: 800.00
If the bitch looks like a Malamute: 800.00
If the bitch resembles a dire wolf is large friendly, loveable and kind and i have had a litter and she is spayed: 2,000.00
If the bitch is not spayed the price goes up and if i am in a good mood: 3,000.00 not in a hurry, not in a bad mood 4,000.00
If the Bitch has never had any puppies and is 3 yrs old not spayed: 600.00
If i only have three bitches and you want one, 20,000.00 (maybe)
If i have 5 males and this male is the lowest on my test sheet, 600.00
I have sold a male Irish wolfhound looking dog for 600.00

 

Any idea how long it will be before I'd be able to buy one?

As soon as my female adults have had a litter or two. If the pups came out great, i would re-breed them. If they came out looking like gsd puppies, i would bred to a different male. If i dont really like the pups, i would keep one and sell the female.

At this time, i dont have enough puppies for everyone on the list so i have to keep my females to have pups in a year.

 


The Older American Alsatian

Older American Alsatians become available for re-homing when they are retired from our breeding program. Prices on them vary, many are around 1800.00 and you are responsible for picking the dog up and/or any transportation fees.

There IS still a screening process, just as there is for puppies. I will only place these dogs in the right homes.  Contact me by e-mail and let me know you are interested and what your household is like. Send me photos of the home and other animals that will be in the new 'pack'. We shall converse back and forth and I will give you my thoughts on the introduction of the dog to the new place.

Next you must fill out a contract. You can use a puppy contract and change the wording and email it to me in a Word Program through the E-mail is fine... I will fix, fill in, change any wording on my side and send it back to you.

You will then re-read it and change or fix anything, (please use a red font color). If there are no changes, sign and date it and E-mail it back to me. I will now sign and date my copy and send it back to you.
   Next, you shall pay for the dog and we shall set up a time for the neutering. The dog/bitch will stay with us for at least one week after surgery if a female and only one or two days if a male.

Should I choose a male or female?

MALES:

Males are more like the lion, more laid back and more loving in the lap kind of dogs. They will accept strangers more easily than a female will, are less noisy and don't dig as much . This all ties in with their role in life to do the least possible. lol...  They were made for procreation and that's what they do best.   They eat and sleep to keep up with the only real job they have. Males are also more girthy, larger heads, more king like, regal, longer coats and thicker coats. Male pups of a litter will get about 10 - 20 lbs heavier than the girl pups in that litter.

FEMALES:

Females on the other hand have more emotional challenges to deal with as they must dig dens, flurt, jump around, stick their faces/butts, near males cages and romp off. They are more vocal and more hyper. They must feed the babies, find food, clean the babies and protect the babies and the territory.

Females are smaller, lighter in bone, thinner heads, more racier looking... though i do keep only the girthiest of the litter for breeding.

Most folks looking for a companion dog will fall into the male category.  Those who get females are happy with them, but I keep telling them that they should have gotten a male. They will not know what cheese cake tastes like unless they take a bite. lol.

Introduction to the New Home

Since these dogs are bonded tightly to their owners it is rather difficult to adopt out one of my dogs, so I must make sure (on my end) that my young adults have the temperament and training to be able to change to a new owner.

  I don't spend a lot of time loving and bonding with them, which will mean that when you get them, YOU put in your time, love attention, training and working with them, then they will bond easier to you for you will be giving this to them. (If you want an already trained dog, it might cost you about 18 thousand dollars. If you want a trained ptsd dog it would probably cost you 30 thousand.)

  I bring ALL my dogs in the home and all of them have house manners. I give everyone who adopts my dogs, a background on the dog and how i do it in my home. This is so that the new owners can follow my outline, my work, my training so that your new dog will feel the same as it did when at my home. Not many pick up on that and they allow the dog to go wherever it wants through the home , doing things THEIR way. When one does that, the dog will eventually settle down and get use to the home being theirs, but it would have gone more smoothly in my opinion had they followed my lead with their new dog.

   These dogs take about six - seven months to really transfer over.. The younger the dog, the easier it is to transfer the pup over of course. I have had some of my older dogs transfer over really quick, instantly... but the way i look at it, the longer it takes to transfer the dogs full self (body and soul) over, the more the BOND is strong for his new family and owner.

 
   Knowing the dogs’ backgrounds as to how well they were socialized will help you manage what might happen. Remember and respect that your resident dog and/or cat may perceive the new dog to be encroaching on their established territory, which can be very stressful.
Never leave new pets unattended, even if a pet is caged. When two pets meet, it is imperative you watch them at all times.

If you have more than one resident dog, introduce each dog one at a time to the new dog to prevent them from overwhelming the newcomer.

Stay in control of the introduction. If you are not sure how your pet will react, take the necessary precautions to keep him (and you) safe. Be patient and adaptable. You will need to teach your new dog to trust you while communicating to your resident pets that you will continue to keep them safe. Building good relationships takes time.

Dog to Dog
   You can bring into the home the new dogs scent. And you can bring in the cage the new dog will be in, (or exercise pen).
Put the new dogs cage in a room with a door. Allow the new dog to have HIS ROOM… don’t let the other animals in. when you take out the new dog, move all the other dogs into a different room, then let the new dog out and go outside to potty. Go directly back into his room. Now let the older dogs out.
Do this several times.

    Now you are ready to take the friendliest of your older dogs outside to see the new dog. Allow the new dog outside first. Let the ONE dog out of the room. He will go to the back door to look out or to a window. If he starts barking or his fur goes up, smack him with a newspaper and tell him, “What the heck are you doing, who do you think you are, the boss or something?”  Then go outside and pet the new dog. Do not allow your older dog to bully the new dog.
What you are doing is allowing the dog to smell each other and allowing them to see you interact with the other dog. This lets them know that others are also a part of this pack.
If you dog is ok with the new dog and not aggressive, then tell your mate to open the back door and let the older dog out. Keep the new dog next to you so he feels safe. If the older dog will run up to the new dog and scares him, then put the older dog on a leash. Matter of fact put both on a leash. Watch their behavior. If it isn’t good, put them up now and try again later.
    You might wish to take them both for a walk with your partner holding a leash to the older dog and you holding a leash to the new dog.
    Each dog should be on a loosely held 8-foot leash and handled by a separate person. Try to stay relaxed so the dogs don’t pick up on any tension you might be feeling.
 
    Don’t force an interaction between the dogs. Just walk near each other for a few minutes. One or both of the dogs may ignore each other, which is fine. Just give the dogs time to get comfortable with the situation. Do not act like an idiot and jump all around and shout excitedly and start aggravating the situation. Do NOT pet the dogs hyperly either. Pet them slowly and sit down. Relax.

   Now, allow the dogs to sniff each other for just a few seconds, with the handlers offering high-pitched, happy praise if there are positive signs from the dogs. But not HYPER… 

   Then lead the dogs away from each other. Do several more sets of brief introductions, which prevent the dogs from focusing too hard and escalating to an aggressive response. Refocus each dog’s attention with obedience commands or short walks.

Watch the dogs’ body language. Things are going well, and you can proceed to the next step if you see:

Loose body movements and muscles, Relaxed open mouths, Play bows or other playful posturing

However, take caution if you see: Stiff, slow body movements, Hair standing up on the back, Tensed mouth or teeth-baring, Growls, Prolonged staring

If you see any of these types of reactions, quickly lead the dogs away from each other and try to get them to focus on you. Then you can try a very brief introduction again, at a further distance. Only proceed to the next step when you see the dogs are tolerating each other.
 
Managing the New Dog in Your Home
Pick up all pet toys, food bowls, beds and the like before you bring the new dog into the house to prevent any tiffs over prized possessions. You can return the resident dog’s toys to him in a few weeks and give the new dogs some new toys of his own. In the meantime, give the dogs toys only when they are in separate areas or their crates.

When you bring the new dog home, put your current pets in a separate area of your home; then, walk the new dog around your home on a leash to show him where he will sleep and eat, where the other pets sleep and eat, etc.
 
Establish boundaries in your home by using baby gates and closing off rooms and areas while all the pets acclimate to the new situation. This way they can see and get used to one another. Allow the resident dog to roam the house, while confining the new dog behind a barrier at first.

Keep the resident dog’s areas for sleeping and eating separate so he doesn’t feel his territory is being threatened. Feed the dogs in separate areas and pick up their food bowls after feeding time is done. Keep the dogs confined in separate areas of your home any time you are away or can’t watch them.

While your dogs may enjoy each other as playmates, supervise their play to prevent them from getting over excited, which can lead to injury of one or both dogs. Interrupt their play if one dog begins to bully or growl at the other and separate them for a few minutes. Praise them when they are playing well together.

If one dog is much older or less energetic than the other, be sure you give him time and space to himself so he can rest and feel secure.
 
Dog to Cat
The prey drive in some dogs is exceptionally strong. In order to ensure your cat or other small pets stay safe, you must get your dog to look to you as his leader so that his desire to please you overcomes his desire to chase another pet.
As with a dog-to-dog introduction, take things slowly, calmly and cautiously. If you can, bring home an item with the new dog’s scent on it so the cat can learn about the dog through his smell first. Plan to place the cat’s things somewhere the dog can’t reach (such as up high) and be sure there is always an escape route so the cat can get away from the dog and feel safe.

While holding the dog on a loose leash, at first allow the dog and cat to see each other. If you fear the dog may get away from you quickly and hurt the cat, use a muzzle if necessary.

With the dog in a down-stay, let the cat wander and come to the dog, if she chooses, for a sniff. Then call the dog away to get him to redirect his attention from the cat, and then allow them to greet again.

Remember, you also need to keep the cat from getting afraid and then running away, which will only trigger the dog’s desire to chase. If the dog begins to fixate on the cat or lunges to get at it, quickly give him a command or just lead him away from the area for a few minutes.

Don’t allow your dog to chase any type of small animal.

If your dog begins to chase the cat, get his attention with a loud hand clap or command (“Leave it!”), or even a shake of his dog food bin. Redirect his behavior so you can leash him and allow the cat to get to a safe place.
 
Dog to Other Small Pets
If you are not sure of your dog’s background with regard to being around small pets, plan the introductions carefully to avoid risk of the pet being harmed. Introduce the animals as you would dog to cat. If you must hold the animal in your arms, take care not to let the dog to get too close. Just let them sniff each other’s scent and learn to tolerate one another’s presence.
I dont let my dogs play or have any close contact with any small animals. They are all a 'leave it'.

Always keep small pets in a secure, sturdy cage out of the dog’s reach, and always supervise your dog even when the pet is caged. When you’re away from home, do not allow your dog to be loose in the same area as the caged pet.
 
 

In all dogs, the more time you spend training and bonding and with the dog, the more you get back in the long run.

What will it cost to own an older dog?

An American Alsatian at 1  1/2 or 2 yrs old will not need to go to a vet until about 10 yrs old. There will be no medical bills unless created by the humans in his/her life that includes any accidents because a human wasn't paying attention.

You may decide to take your dog in for health check ups of course. All my dogs should go to the vet for their first check ups and EVERY dog should get a COMPLETE stool sample tested. This includes tests for gearida and Coccidiosis as we live on a farm and mice, rats, snakes and other critters fall in the water and die, get into the food, shit and piss everywhere and our dogs may sometimes just kill and eat them.

The cost of food, housing and training will be the only costs.

The first year's expenses will probaly include several supplies, especially if you are a new dog owner. 
Leash, collar, bowls, grooming tools and other incidentals will add up to around 100.00
NOTE: Adults are not too interested in toys. Most love to chew on pigs ears and bones.

You will also need a good vari kennel or travel kennel that can be used to keep a dog in while you are gone for long periods, or while you travel, or just as a bedroom for the dog will cost about 200.00

It will cost about 40.00-50.00 a sack of decent quality dry food a month.
I recommend mixing in cooked chicken and rice. You can feed one Cornish hen a week and two eggs with the shells on them a week.  (a bag of rice will cost about 8.00 and will last you about six months).

Food Cost per month: $30 - $60.00 per mo X 12 = $360.00 - $720.00 per year say 1,000.00 a year
Vitamins and minerals as supplements may cost 10.00-45.00 for the year?

Total cost of this dog for the first year would be about $670 - $1065.00 and Roughly $400-$800 per year (I rounded up to include even more incidentals) thereafter.

800.00 x 10 yrs.  (should live till 13 - 14 yrs old)

5 to 8 thousand dollars total life of this dog is my estimate
 

"If I love my dogs, how can I get rid of them?"

    If you have read all the pages of this web site, you have grown to know the person I am.  In knowing that; you then know that I am not an ordinary gal.

    It takes perseverance as well as a strong will, desire and a hard core to do what I am doing.

   There are not very many who could give up dogs or 'adopt' out dogs to 'forever homes' and there have been some blogging going on that I am kind of heartless. That if i loved my dogs, how could i get rid of them.

   What I have to say to that is:

1.  In my opinion it is selfish of me to want to keep such a WONDERFUL, fulfilling, great dog .... all to my self.  How selfish of me not to want to give the dogs I love and hold dear to my heart to another human being who may need this particular dog.

2.  How dare they mold me (a person that they have not met, that they do not know) into something that they have conjured up in their weak, selfish and hateful minds.  What they say and do, I have no control over and I will not worry myself about...

3.  I dont have to prove to anyone that i love my dogs. My belief is that I will see them again.  I shall be surrounded by over 3 thousand (not virgins, but) dogs...

4.  How great is my love that I could give such a wonderful gift to another?

So it is all in how you look at it.  If you have love in your heart for others, you will see it my way.  If you have love of yourself and wish to horde all that you see that is great and good, then you would not understand me, and that is fine with me


Schwarz dogs are NOT working dogs

Books by Lois E. Schwarz