***OLDER Dogs For $ALE
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<------------------------ click on photo to go to her page
Anastasia (dire wolf female)
Trained but needs more.
Perfect Am Alsatian Family companion dog.
She is retireing from bringing the best pups into the world.
The Monarch of our breed. Fantastic female. She has a Register of Merit after her name.
What is the range of prices for an adult?
Don't quote me on this:
If i am tired, and have over 10 bitches and she is not spayed and it looks like a gsd: 800.00
If the bitch looks like a Malamute: 800.00
If the bitch resembles a dire wolf is large friendly, lovable and kind and i have had a litter and she is spayed: 2,000.00
If the bitch is not spayed the price goes up and if i am in a good mood: 3,000.00 not in a hurry, not in a bad mood 4,000.00
If the Bitch has never had any puppies and is 3 yrs old not spayed: 600.00
If i only have three bitches and you want one, 20,000.00 (maybe)
If i have 5 males and this male is the lowest on my test sheet, 600.00
I have sold a male Irish wolfhound looking dog for 600.00
Any idea how long it will be before I'd be able to buy one?
As soon as my female adults have had a litter or two. If the pups came out great, i would re-breed them. If they came out looking like gsd puppies, i would bred to a different male. If i don't really like the pups, i would keep one and sell the female.
At this time, i don't have enough puppies for everyone on the list so i have to keep my females to have pups in a year.
The Older American Alsatian
Older American Alsatians become available for re-homing when they are retired from our breeding program. Prices on them vary, many are around 1800.00 and you are responsible for picking the dog up and/or any transportation fees.
There IS still a screening process, just as there is for puppies. I will only place these dogs in the right homes. Contact me by e-mail and let me know you are interested and what your household is like. Send me photos of the home and other animals that will be in the new 'pack'. We shall converse back and forth and I will give you my thoughts on the introduction of the dog to the new place.
Next you must fill out a contract. You can use a puppy contract and change the wording and email it to me in a Word Program through the E-mail is fine... I will fix, fill in, change any wording on my side and send it back to you.
You will then re-read it and change or fix anything, (please use a red font color). If there are no changes, sign and date it and E-mail it back to me. I will now sign and date my copy and send it back to you.
Next, you shall pay for the dog and we shall set up a time for the neutering. The dog/bitch will stay with us for at least one week after surgery if a female and only one or two days if a male.
Should I choose a male or female?
Males are more like the lion, more laid back and more loving in the lap kind of dogs. They will accept strangers more easily than a female will, are less noisy and don't dig as much . This all ties in with their role in life to do the least possible. lol... They were made for procreation and that's what they do best. They eat and sleep to keep up with the only real job they have. Males are also more girthy, larger heads, more king like, regal, longer coats and thicker coats. Male pups of a litter will get about 10 - 20 lbs heavier than the girl pups in that litter.
Females on the other hand have more emotional challenges to deal with as they must dig dens, flirt, jump around, stick their faces/butts, near males cages and romp off. They are more vocal and more hyper. They must feed the babies, find food, clean the babies and protect the babies and the territory.
Females are smaller, lighter in bone, thinner heads, more racier looking... though i do keep only the girthiest of the litter for breeding.
Most folks looking for a companion dog will fall into the male category. Those who get females are happy with them, but I keep telling them that they should have gotten a male. They will not know what cheese cake tastes like unless they take a bite. lol.
Introduction to the New Home
Since these dogs are bonded tightly to their owners it is rather difficult to adopt out one of my dogs, so I must make sure (on my end) that my young adults have the temperament and training to be able to change to a new owner.
I don't spend a lot of time loving and bonding with them, which will mean that when you get them, YOU put in your time, love attention, training and working with them, then they will bond easier to you for you will be giving this to them. (If you want an already trained dog, it might cost you about 18 thousand dollars. If you want a trained PTSD dog it would probably cost you 20 thousand.)
I bring ALL my dogs in the home and all of them have house manners. I give everyone who adopts my dogs, a background on the dog and how i do it in my home. This is so that the new owners can follow my outline, my work, my training so that your new dog will feel the same as it did when at my home. Not many pick up on that and they allow the dog to go wherever it wants through the home , doing things THEIR way. When one does that, the dog will eventually settle down and get use to the home being theirs, but it would have gone more smoothly in my opinion had they followed my lead with their new dog.
These dogs take about six - seven months to really transfer over.. The younger the dog, the easier it is to transfer the pup over of course. I have had some of my older dogs transfer over really quick, instantly... but the way i look at it, the longer it takes to transfer the dogs full self (body and soul) over, the more the BOND is strong for his new family and owner.
Knowing the dogs’ backgrounds as to how well they were socialized will help you manage what might happen. Remember and respect that your resident dog and/or cat may perceive the new dog to be encroaching on their established territory, which can be very stressful.
Never leave new pets unattended, even if a pet is caged. When two pets meet, it is imperative you watch them at all times.
If you have more than one resident dog, introduce each dog one at a time to the new dog to prevent them from overwhelming the newcomer.
Stay in control of the introduction. If you are not sure how your pet will react, take the necessary precautions to keep him (and you) safe. Be patient and adaptable. You will need to teach your new dog to trust you while communicating to your resident pets that you will continue to keep them safe. Building good relationships takes time.
Dog to Dog
You can bring into the home the new dogs scent. And you can bring in the cage the new dog will be in, (or exercise pen).
Put the new dogs cage in a room with a door. Allow the new dog to have HIS ROOM… don’t let the other animals in. when you take out the new dog, move all the other dogs into a different room, then let the new dog out and go outside to potty. Go directly back into his room. Now let the older dogs out.
Do this several times.
Now you are ready to take the friendliest of your older dogs outside to see the new dog. Allow the new dog outside first. Let the ONE dog out of the room. He will go to the back door to look out or to a window. If he starts barking or his fur goes up, smack him with a newspaper and tell him, “What the heck are you doing, who do you think you are, the boss or something?” Then go outside and pet the new dog. Do not allow your older dog to bully the new dog.
What you are doing is allowing the dog to smell each other and allowing them to see you interact with the other dog. This lets them know that others are also a part of this pack.
If you dog is ok with the new dog and not aggressive, then tell your mate to open the back door and let the older dog out. Keep the new dog next to you so he feels safe. If the older dog will run up to the new dog and scares him, then put the older dog on a leash. Matter of fact put both on a leash. Watch their behavior. If it isn’t good, put them up now and try again later.
You might wish to take them both for a walk with your partner holding a leash to the older dog and you holding a leash to the new dog.
Each dog should be on a loosely held 8-foot leash and handled by a separate person. Try to stay relaxed so the dogs don’t pick up on any tension you might be feeling.
Don’t force an interaction between the dogs. Just walk near each other for a few minutes. One or both of the dogs may ignore each other, which is fine. Just give the dogs time to get comfortable with the situation. Do not act like an idiot and jump all around and shout excitedly and start aggravating the situation. Do NOT pet the dogs hyperly either. Pet them slowly and sit down. Relax.
Now, allow the dogs to sniff each other for just a few seconds, with the handlers offering high-pitched, happy praise if there are positive signs from the dogs. But not HYPER…
Then lead the dogs away from each other. Do several more sets of brief introductions, which prevent the dogs from focusing too hard and escalating to an aggressive response. Refocus each dog’s attention with obedience commands or short walks.
Watch the dogs’ body language. Things are going well, and you can proceed to the next step if you see:
Loose body movements and muscles, Relaxed open mouths, Play bows or other playful posturing
However, take caution if you see: Stiff, slow body movements, Hair standing up on the back, Tensed mouth or teeth-baring, Growls, Prolonged staring (though my dire wolves do stare)
If you see any of these types of reactions, quickly lead the dogs away from each other and try to get them to focus on you. Then you can try a very brief introduction again, at a further distance. Only proceed to the next step when you see the dogs are tolerating each other.
Managing the New Dog in Your Home
Pick up all pet toys, food bowls, beds and the like before you bring the new dog into the house to prevent any tiffs over prized possessions. You can return the resident dog’s toys to him in a few weeks and give the new dogs some new toys of his own. In the meantime, give the dogs toys only when they are in separate areas or their crates.
When you bring the new dog home, put your current pets in a separate area of your home; then, walk the new dog around your home on a leash to show him where he will sleep and eat, where the other pets sleep and eat, etc.
Establish boundaries in your home by using baby gates and closing off rooms and areas while all the pets acclimate to the new situation. This way they can see and get used to one another. Allow the resident dog to roam the house, while confining the new dog behind a barrier at first.
Keep the resident dog’s areas for sleeping and eating separate so he doesn’t feel his territory is being threatened. Feed the dogs in separate areas and pick up their food bowls after feeding time is done. Keep the dogs confined in separate areas of your home any time you are away or can’t watch them.
While your dogs may enjoy each other as playmates, supervise their play to prevent them from getting over excited, which can lead to injury of one or both dogs. Interrupt their play if one dog begins to bully or growl at the other and separate them for a few minutes. Praise them when they are playing well together.
If one dog is much older or less energetic than the other, be sure you give him time and space to himself so he can rest and feel secure.
Dog to Cat
The prey drive in some dogs is exceptionally strong. In order to ensure your cat or other small pets stay safe, you must get your dog to look to you as his leader so that his desire to please you overcomes his desire to chase another pet.
As with a dog-to-dog introduction, take things slowly, calmly and cautiously. If you can, bring home an item with the new dog’s scent on it so the cat can learn about the dog through his smell first. Plan to place the cat’s things somewhere the dog can’t reach (such as up high) and be sure there is always an escape route so the cat can get away from the dog and feel safe.
While holding the dog on a loose leash, at first allow the dog and cat to see each other. If you fear the dog may get away from you quickly and hurt the cat, use a muzzle if necessary.
With the dog in a down-stay, let the cat wander and come to the dog, if she chooses, for a sniff. Then call the dog away to get him to redirect his attention from the cat, and then allow them to greet again.
Remember, you also need to keep the cat from getting afraid and then running away, which will only trigger the dog’s desire to chase. If the dog begins to fixate on the cat or lunges to get at it, quickly give him a command or just lead him away from the area for a few minutes.
Don’t allow your dog to chase any type of small animal.
If your dog begins to chase the cat, get his attention with a loud hand clap or command (“Leave it!”), or even a shake of his dog food bin. Redirect his behavior so you can leash him and allow the cat to get to a safe place.
Dog to Other Small Pets
If you are not sure of your dog’s background with regard to being around small pets, plan the introductions carefully to avoid risk of the pet being harmed. Introduce the animals as you would dog to cat. If you must hold the animal in your arms, take care not to let the dog to get too close. Just let them sniff each other’s scent and learn to tolerate one another’s presence.
I don't let my dogs play or have any close contact with any small animals. They are all a 'leave it'.
Always keep small pets in a secure, sturdy cage out of the dog’s reach, and always supervise your dog even when the pet is caged. When you’re away from home, do not allow your dog to be loose in the same area as the caged pet.
In all dogs, the more time you spend training and bonding and with the dog, the more you get back in the long run.
What will it cost to own an older dog?
An American Alsatian at 1 1/2 or 2 yrs old will not need to go to a vet until about 10 yrs old. There will be no medical bills unless created by the humans in his/her life that includes any accidents because a human wasn't paying attention or not feeding a dog properly for it to grow like it should. I do suggest you get a complete blood test of your new puppy/dog asap. Please send it to me or post it in the Am Alsatian Owners group on face book.
You may decide to take your dog in for health check ups of course. All my dogs should go to the vet for their first check ups and EVERY dog should get a COMPLETE stool sample tested. This includes tests for giardia and Coccidiosis as we live on a farm and mice, rats, snakes and other critters fall in the water and die, get into the food, shit and piss everywhere and our dogs may sometimes just kill and eat them.
The cost of food, housing and training will be the only costs.
The first year's expenses will probably include several supplies, especially if you are a new dog owner.
Leash, collar, bowls, grooming tools and other incidentals will add up to around 100.00
NOTE: Adults are not too interested in toys. Most of my dogs love to chew on pigs ears and bones.
You will also need a good vari kennel or travel kennel that can be used to keep a dog in while you are gone for long periods, or while you travel, or just as a bedroom for the dog will cost about 200.00
It will cost about 40.00-50.00 a sack of decent quality dry food a month.
I recommend mixing in cooked chicken and rice. You can feed one Cornish hen a week and two eggs with the shells on them a week. (a bag of rice will cost about 8.00 and will last you about six months). Or you can feed 1/2 lb of raw chicken a day. I find it cheaper.
Food Cost per month: $30 - $60.00 per mo X 12 = $360.00 - $720.00 per year say 1,000.00 a year
Vitamins and minerals as supplements may cost 10.00-45.00 for the year?
Total cost of this dog for the first year would be about $670 - $1065.00 and Roughly $400-$800 per year (I rounded up to include even more incidentals) thereafter.
800.00 x 10 yrs. (should live till 13 - 14 yrs old)
5 to 8 thousand dollars total life of this dog is my estimate
"If I love my dogs, how can I get rid of them?"
If you have read all the pages of this web site, you have grown to know the person I am. In knowing that; you then know that I am not an ordinary gal.
It takes perseverance as well as a strong will, desire and a hard core to do what I am doing.
There are not very many who could give up dogs or 'adopt' out dogs to 'forever homes' and there have been some blogging going on that I am heartless. That if i loved my dogs, how could i get rid of them.
What I have to say to that is:
1. In my opinion it is selfish of me to want to keep such a WONDERFUL, fulfilling, great dog .... all to my self. How selfish of me not to want to give the dogs I love and hold dear to my heart to another human being who may need this particular dog.
2. How dare they mold me (a person that they have not met, that they do not know) into something that they have conjured up in their weak, selfish and hateful minds. What they say and do, I have no control over and I will not worry myself about...
3. I don't have to prove to anyone that i love my dogs. My belief is that I will see them again. I shall be surrounded by over 3 thousand (not virgins, but) dogs...
4. How great is my love that I could give such a wonderful gift to another?
So it is all in how you look at it. If you have love in your heart for others, you will see it my way. If you have love of yourself and wish to horde all that you see that is great and good, then you would not understand me, and that is fine with me